Tasting
millésimes
Each vintage brings out the character of its terroirs in its own way. Soil, grape variety, sunshine, temperature, rainfall (especially in late summer and early autumn) all contribute to bring out the wines' expression, subtly different every year.
Different every time, but always closely linked to the soil which imprints its character on them from the start, but seasonal conditions also make their mark. the aromatic intensity and power of a given wine may be variable. This offers the wine-lover the pleasure of making discoveries, of experiencing excitement of discovery: terroir gives the framework, yearly conditions add the detail.
- 2008
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Among the Beaujolais, the Moulin-à-Vent,
tasted in barrel, is dense, meaty and with well-expressed Gamay fruit. Though
acidity was notably present when maturation began, malolactic fermentation has
lowered it very noticeably.
Among the Mâconnais, the Pinot Noir needed
very strict triage to eliminate damaged fruit, both at the time of picking and
again at the vatting-house, but the outcome was fruit in top condition and, as
a result, wines that are straightforward, clean-cut and beautifully coloured.
Acidity is still high but malolactic fermentation has yet to make its influence
felt. To signify the quality of the 2008 vintage, Olivier Merlin will be offering
a burgundy under the appellation "Les Cras", a name only used in the
very best years.
The chardonnays - Pouilly-Fuissé,
Saint-Véran, Viré-Clessé, Mâcon and Bourgogne - were picked last to allow the
grapes maximum benefit from the autumn sunshine of 2008. The secateurs only
stopped clicking on October 7th. Today the wines exhibit notes of pear and
white peach. Maturity brings wines that are fleshy, ripe, and long in the
finish.
"I'm very optimistic as regards the
quality of our 2008s, both reds and whites," says Olivier Merlin. These wines are the product of a year
of uncertain weather. Flowering was spread over three weeks, which led to shot
berries (dwarfed fruit). The summer brought a series of rainy episodes - not a
week passed without some rain. Mildew was a constant threat and maturation came
late. The choice of harvest date was critical and over 100 samplings were
needed to fix it. But sunshine in September and October, plus a northerly wind,
enabled the grapes to concentrate their juices and ripen satisfactorily.
Picking began on the Merlin domaine on September 23rd. Given these conditions
and the strict triage needed, yields were low: 40 hl/ha for the beaujolais,
30-35 hl/ha for the Pinot Noir, and less than 50 hl/ha for the Chardonnay.
Téléphone: 03 85 36 62 09 - Fax: 03 85 36 66 45 - E-mail: contact@merlin-vins.fr - Internet: http://www.merlin-vins.com