MERLIN

Revue des Vins de France
reference guide 2008

 

In his handsome winery at La Roche Vineuse, Olivier Merlin produces a superb range of white Mâconnais wines which exemplify the district's qualitative renaissance. They are richly substantial, while vinification and elevage in wood confer a seductive but never over-stated woodiness blended with the attractive minerality derived from their terroir.

He also vinifies excellent reds. His Moulin-à-Vent is, in our opinion, one of the most remarkable cuvées of any Beaujolais cru currently available and points interested wine-makers the way to go to recover the good opinion of serious wine-lovers.

The wines

It is their fruit which creates the basic impression while the body is dominated by a tempting freshness. The Fuissé terroirs were particularly seductive. The Clos des Quarts is superb, its breadth and harmonious texture making it by far the most rounded and well-finished.

The Terroir de Vergisson 2005 doesn't in this vintage impose its tensioned minerality but is very buttery for this village. The Terroir de Fuissé, normally fatter and fuller, has an attractive sprightliness which gives it real oomph and the body is good.

Pouilly-Fuissé Clos des Quarts, 16.5/20

Pouilly-Fuissé Terroir de Fuissé 2005, 15.5/20

Pouilly-Fuissé Terroir de Vergisson 2005, 15/20

Mâcon la Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes 2005, 14.5/20

Saint-Véran le Grand Bussière 2005, 14/20

 

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